Make mine raw:
Improving quality and extending your image legacy
By John Nate
In the universe of digital
photography, most camera users believe that the control they have over their
images is confined to making changes to the traditional shutter speed and
aperture controls — much like they did with their older film cameras.
The belief is that other than
getting a correct exposure, there is not much else to do until they get the file
into Adobe Photoshop. They simply set the exposure control and, after creating
the photograph, transfer the JPEG file in either sRGB or Adobe RGB colorspace
onto their computer, launch Photoshop, and let the magic begin.
What many photographers don’t
know, and many others chose to ignore, is that there is a step in between the
image creation and the file transfer to the computer over which they may want to
have control. Rather than allowing the camera software to decide on the color
conversion and file format, it could make more sense to work directly with the
raw files.
Although it should be noted
that not all digital cameras allow you to work with the raw file format, those
that do give you additional control over your images.
Control over images
What exactly is a raw file?
Let’s look at what happens
when a digital image is created inside a camera. A common sensor inside a
digital camera consists of numerous light-sensitive sites, each capable of
recording red, green, or blue light. These sites are laid out in an array like
the one shown in Figure 1.

Fig. 1
Each of the sites records a
small element of the photograph, commonly referred to as a picture element:
pixel for short. The camera software takes the single red, green or blue data
recorded for each pixel and calculates the two missing channels for each pixel.
At this stage you have a raw file and a decision to make.
Cameras are programmed to take
the raw image and perform several tasks. These include performing a white or
gray balance, adjusting the image contrast and saturation, sharpening the image,
converting the file from the native 12- or 14-bit into an 8-bit file, converting
the image into to a new colorspace, converting it into the JPEG file format,
and, finally, compressing and saving the resulting file.
The problem? Quite often, this
is a “one size fits all” process, despite the original image characteristics.
Before jumping on
bandwagon…
Before jumping onto the raw
bandwagon, keep in mind there are some advantages to be gained by allowing the
camera to simply do its thing.
For one, images are smaller so
more of them can fit onto a memory card. Setting your camera to shoot raw can
also often slow the camera down. You don’t need to take the time to manually
convert your images, you don’t need to learn how to process the raw files, and
often the JPEG files a digital camera produces are simply good enough for many
purposes.
So, you might ask why you
would want to put in the effort to work with raw images.
In a nutshell, if your image
isn’t a simple family snapshot and will be viewed by an audience that will
appreciate the additional quality that can be obtained by working with raw
images (this would not be anyone in my family), it can make sense to take the
time to learn how to work with this file type.
Think of a raw image as if it
were a piece of film from one of those ancient cameras that you used to use.
Just as you could change developer, processing times and processing methods to
modify the “look” and aesthetic details of the photo, you can work with the raw
image to give you a better starting point before you bring the digital file into
your image editing program.
Smoother gradients
possible
Once an image has had its
contrast and saturation modified in the camera software, it can be difficult if
not impossible to restore detail that might have been lost in the process.
With raw, you not only have
far greater control over these processes, you can always return to the original
raw image if you need to start over or if you have new output equipment that
would benefit from a modification of the image processing. Color temperature,
exposure, shadow detail, brightness, contrast, saturation and image sharpness
tools are all at your disposal when working with raw images.
You can work with individual
color channels or the composite image. But for some, the most important benefit
in working with raw images is in the ability to work with the resulting 16-bit
images in Photoshop. Images that have a 16-bit depth rather than an 8-bit depth
can have smoother gradients and improved tone separation.
Next time, we’ll take a look
at working with raw images in detail as well as the Photoshop Camera Raw
interface. In the meantime, check your camera and see if you can save your
images in the raw format. Shoot a few test images and save them as both raw and
in your favorite default flavor. That way you will be able to do real-world
comparisons and see for yourself if raw is for you.
John Nate
is a senior color specialist for Chromaticity Inc., an integrator of color
technologies for the newspaper and other industries. He can be reached at
616.988.6119, or via e-mail at
jnate@chromaticity.com.